Bagore Ki Haveli

Boasting of a wondrous and skilled architecture, Bagore ki haveli is home to around 138 rooms which are all done up and decorated with glass and mirror work. The building has several archways, spacious corridors, jharokas i.e. balconies, cupolas, water fountains and terraces etc. A stroll down the inner segments of the haveli can also give you a glance into the more private quarters of the queens and the royal ladies with their elaborate bathrooms, recreation rooms, makeup rooms, bed rooms, worship rooms and the like.

The very famous ‘Chamber of the Royal Ladies’ still boasts of some of the original fine frescoes and paintings from the bygone era. Other than the two glass crafted vibrant and enchanting peacocks which are a true testimony of the skilled craftsmanship, the interior windows have glass stained windows and mural in a classic Mewari style. Some of the more popular items on display at the haveli include jewellery boxes, dice-games, hukkas, nut crackers, pan boxes, hand fans, rose water sprinklers and copper vessels etc. which are synonymous to the identity of the Rajput clan.

The haveli welcomes its visitors with a marvellous spacious courtyard which houses a beautiful two storeyed lotus with a water fountain in between. The entire space is divided up into three chowks- Kuan Chowk, Neem Chowk and Tulsi Chowk. Kuan Chowk that translates to Well Chowk (‘kuan’ meaning ‘well’) is situated on the ground floor itself, which use to house the stables for the horses and had house stores that catered to the everyday activities and requirements of the housekeeping staff. Neem Chowk is situated on the first floor was a higher status chowk with brass doors and costly decor. This one was used to host dance performances for the visiting guests. Even today, this section is used to display dance and art forms.

Tulsi Chowk, on the other hand, was especially designed and created for the princesses and the royal ladies. This section houses the zenana and the inner chamber where ‘ghoomar’ dance performances were held and other recreational activities were carried out. Today, this chowk is a gallery which is reminiscent of the ancient days with a display of turbans and traditional women dresses worn by the queens and the princesses in their hay day.

In addition to the three chowks, the haveli also houses the Kaanch Mahal i.e. the passage done up entirely with mirrors and the Durrie Khana. These were the sections exclusive only to the men of the house. The largest chamber in the entire haveli was Diwan- i -Khas which is currently the office of the Director of the West Zone Cultural Centre.  Besides, it has a Shringar Kaksh which was used by women for their make up and as the dressing room. Sangeet Kaksh was used by the royal ladies to learn music, dance and musical instruments like santoor, sarangi etc. And Manoranjan Kaksh was used by men to play indoor games like chess, chaupad, ganjifa etc.

The Museum with the Bagore is Haveli is divided into four sections, all of which are open to public visit

1. Puppet Museum

   One entire section in Bagore ki Haveli has been dedicated to the display of puppets which are synonymous to the culture and tradition of Rajasthan. The entrance showcases several miniature puppets and other hand made and handcrafted decorative items. Inside the room has an elaborate display of a courtroom replete with king dolls and queen dolls and ministers dolls even horses’ dolls depicting a scene of an ongoing courtroom. The visitors can also buy puppets from here at nominal prices.

2. Haveli Museum

   The Haveli Museum is basically a tour of the entire haveli that is shown around to the visitors. The tour includes the private chambers of the ladies, the guests rooms, bed rooms, recreation rooms, lobbies and the terrace. The terrace, quite a few in number offer an overview of the surrounding city with its plethora of lakes and the gorgeous views. The rooms are done up just like in ancient times with olden day beds and royal looking curtains. The walls carry the ancient paintings and murals and depictions of scenes from the royal era. All the products, owned, worn or used by the kings and the queen are also present in the haveli that include armours, arms, jewellery boxes, hookahs etc.
   
   The collection also boasts of an Elephant Chariot or a Vimaan that was possessed by the Kings of Jhalawar. And a new addition to this, includes a miniature thermocol model of the Bagore ki Haveli. This model also has an Eiffel Tower, Leaning Tower of Pisa, Taj Mahal etc.

3. Turban Section

   The Turban Section of the museum puts on display an elaborate collection of several turbans that have been brought in from the states of Punjab, Haryana, Rajasthan and Gujarat. It is an insight on the different cultures and how different people wear their turbans like in Rajasthan, people wear colourful turbans made with bandhani or tie dye fabrics. While in Punjab, the turbans are mostly done in plain colours. Whereas Gujarati turbans are somewhat similar to the Rajsthani ones.

4. Weapon Section

   Weapons Section in Bagore ki Haveli is the smallest section of the lot. Like the name suggests, this segment has on display the arms, weapons and armoury used by the kings and their armies during wars and battles.

5. Wedding Section

   The Wedding Section is also almost as small as the Weapon Section. It displays the stages of an Indian wedding through puppets and dolls. Right from the stage of Muhuratam to the Pheras and Vidaai, it depicts all the stages of a traditional Indian Hindu wedding.

Dharohar Dance Show is the main highlight of Bagore ki Haveli which is a colourful dance performance by the traditional folk artists and dancers, conducted around 7:00 PM every day in the evenings. The show is held and hosted at the Neem Chowk on the first floor of the Haveli with a brightly lit decor and a fairy light setting. A centre stage is made along one side of the wall with mattresses and a low rise panel. Several other mattresses are spread on the remaining three sides to create a seating space. The well versed and choreographed dancers are supported by an efficient musical crew that helps the grooving dancers with their musical beats on tabla, harmonium and other musical instruments. Both the women and the crew is clad in colourful traditional Rajasthani attires adorned with mirror work and embroidery. A rough itinerary of the Dharohar Dance Show is listed below:

1. The show commences with a brief introduction given by a native woman clad in traditional costume. This introduction is followed by beating of a drum, blowing of a conch shell and a religious song. This programme presides the dance performances.
2. The first item is the Chari Dance where the performers are required to balance pots on their bare heads while dancing to the live tunes of the musicians.
3. The next performance called the Terha Taal Dance requires utmost concentration and coordination on the part of the dancers as they are expected to play the 13 majiras (bells) tied to their hands, legs, and waist as per the rhythm of the music and beat. One step requires the to hold a sharp knife in their mouth and balance the brass pots on their heads while still matching the sound of the manjiras to the tunes of the music.
4. Gorbandh Dance is the next piece which is a reminder of the carefree childhood days. The women dance, twirl and twerk to the music in complete abandon after wearing heavy ornaments and jewellery, which is used to adorn the camels.
5. The next item is a break from the dances and is a Rajasthani Puppet Show to provide a respite and a different kind of entertainment. This show especially appeals to the young kids as it is full of humour, wit and entertainment.
6. The following performance is the most awaited and the most demanded one. It is a classic Ghoomar Dance Performance by skilled dancers. The dance form is performed by women dancing in circles with each other. It is considered to be one of the most graceful shows of the night and witnessing one performance is a delight to the eyes.
7. The last show is the Bhavani Dance while is the most thrilling piece to watch and the most difficult piece to perform. Here, the dancers perform on broken glass pieces with bare foot. They also need to balance earthen pots on their heads whose number may vary from 3 to 13.

The entry to the museum is open on all days from 9:30 AM to 5:30 PM. However, Dharohar Dance Show Timings are from 7:00 PM to 8:00 PM and the show tickets are available from 6:15 PM.

Tickets for the common entry are:

Domestic Adult - INR 60,
Domestic Children (Age between 5 to 12) - INR 30,
Foreign Adult - INR 100,
Foreign Children (Age between 5 to 12) - INR 50,
Camera/ Video - INR 50.

While for the Dharohar Dance Show, the entry fee is:

Domestic Adult - INR 90,
Domestic Children (Age between 5 to 12) - INR 45,
Foreign Adult - INR 150,
Foreign Children (Age between 5 to 12) - INR 75,
Camera/ Video - INR 150

The best time to visit Bagore ki Haveli is between the months of September and March when the maximum temperature reaches 28 degree celsius. Udaipur being a desert city, the summer months can get extremely hot and any kind of sightseeing or movement is extremely uncomfortable.

The city is well connected through local buses, autos and rickshaws. Bagore ki Haveli is located within a 1.5 km radius of the centre of the city and can easily be reached through public transport. Alternatively, you can also book a private cab or reach here in a taxi.